Land Rover Series 3 88

I have a 1983 88inch 2.25 petrol model. I use it primarily for farm work which involves off-roading and towing up to 2.5 tonnes. It is not very fast but it tows 2.5tonnes (over its recommended limit) with out much difficulty. It burns a little bit of oil and the synchromesh on reverse is starting wear. Other than the problems above it runs like clockwork. I have not much mechanical trouble with it so I would recommend this vehicle to anyone using it for its purpose but keeping it serviced and looked after is very important. It is a good all-round vehicle for both work and pleasure.

It has been some years since I bought this Land Rover, indeed I had it for my 15th birthday, but I can safely say that after several years of ownership there is no other vehicle around that fulfills my requirements and carries out so many roles, so brilliantly, day-in, day-out. It is not without its flaws, however.

Firstly, the engine. My vehicle is about as mechanically standard as they get and therefore probably most representative of what you will get. In short, it is under powered. My vehicle will cruise at 55 mph all day and will pull 65 mph without too much effort, but it seriously lacks power on hills compared to what many people will expect. I don't find it a hindrance, but as I am aiming this review at first time buyers, it will be a shock.

When it was new it produced 70.9 B.H.P. at 4,000 rev/min and whilst mine does produce this because it's a rebuilt engine, most won't and therefore it will be slow. They also lacked torque, mustering just 120 lbs/ft at 2,000 rev/min, however it is a very tractable engine and will pull from very low engine speeds all the way until about 4,200 rev/min, but there is a noticeable drop-off in performance below approximately 1,600 rev/min. In short, it is happiest between 2,000 rev/min and 3,000 rev/min, and will return an average fuel consumption of 22 mpg at 50 mph. Around town, expect an average figure of 15 mpg.

Secondly, the gearbox. Contrary to popular belief the Series III gearbox is stronger than the Series IIA design, mainly because the layshaft gears are machined into the layshaft rather than being seperate and held in by circlips. It is also significantly quieter than the Series IIA type and requires significantly less gear lever movement than before, but do not think it is in any way precise, because it isn't. It has quite a vague movement with lots of play even when rebuilt with a new lever and selector shafts, and it lacks a centre spring in the neutral position.

Once you get used to the gearbox it is fairly simple to select the gears but it does seem to like a slow change, in particular between 2nd and 3rd gears, both up and down the 'box. The other problem with the gearbox is the choice of ratios. For some strange reason, Land Rover felt the need to change the ratios for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. This means that these 3 gears are quite low in ratio and the jump from 3rd to 4th gear is so large, it can be difficult to maintain momentum.

The transfer gearbox is a two-speed, non-synchromesh affair with a dog-clutch operation for four-wheel drive. In fairness the overall ratios are fine but I suspect that taller high-ratio gearing might be welcome on long-runs, but any more than 10% and I suspect the engine won't pull up hills very well, in particular the diesel. It is also quite noisy, delivering a high-pitched howl although in good order it shouldn't be any more so than the engine.

The gearbox is known to leak oil around the exposed selector shafts. For some reason they are exposed on the top of the gearbox, with 3 o-rings to prevent oil leaking out. Naturally, they don't work particularly well, and tends to leave an unsightly mess both on the ground and down the sides of the gearbox. The transfer gearbox is also known to leak around the power take-off cover plate, although aftermarket ones with increased capacity are available.

The brakes also take some getting used to. Whilst certainly up to the job of stopping an unladen vehicle, they are 'spongy' compared to the Ninety/One-Ten range as they are drums all-round and can be marginal when heavily loaded, and being drums can also suffer from brake fade. Vehicles with servo assistance are far easier to stop, but later models (approximately July 1980-on, although Station Wagons in particular may have been sitting around for a while) have the front drums from the 109" and the brakes are much better.

The steering is a shocker, and is very vague around the centre and requires constant corrections, although often they can be much improved by new bushes and an overhaul. The suspension is of the semi-elliptic leaf-spring variety, not unlike those found on carts, and provides a very hard ride, and plenty of body roll. The rear and the right hand side is also prone to sagging over time, but if lubricated they can be tolerable and do cope with loads admirably well. They also offer a lot of axle articulation, and in good order comes as a surprise to many owners of coil-spring Land Rovers.

The level of interior trim is stark, even on higher specification models. Basic trim is bare metal, non-adjustable seats and not even rubber grips on the pedals. Station Wagons got de-luxe trim as standard minus the de-luxe adjustable seats which only became standard in February 1980 across the range. De-luxe seats offer far greater support and are adjustable fore and aft. County models got a rather fetching grey/brown cloth with head restraints and an adjustable back-rest.

However, even with de-luxe trim, all you got was hardboard panels covered in vinyl, a crude headlining of vinyl wrapped over a metal frame and 'hardura' floor matting with rubber mats. Hardura is basically plastic coated felt and it tends to soak up damp and cause rot and strange smells. Modern day alternatives are available with most trim available from Exmoor Trim and replacement headlining and Station Wagon specific parts can be imported from the USA from Badger Coachworks.

Talking of rot, this is the single biggest killer of Series III Land Rovers. Virtually everything that's steel and not galvanised can and will rot over time. This includes door tops, door bottom frames, radiator panel, and crucially the bulkhead and chassis. Although most of the outer panels are made of an aluminium/magnesium alloy, these steel parts are trouble. In fact, I will devote a paragraph each to both the chassis and the bulkhead.

Chassis wise mine was rotten along near the entire length, but normally it's the main chassis rails and cross-members behind the engine and gearbox. Outriggers also go, especially around the fuel tank and the bulkhead. Regular cleaning around the fuel tank and front mud flaps all help reduce mud collecting. In short all of the outriggers and the rear cross-member is a mud trap. Front 'dumb irons' (the chassis section the front bumper bolts to which also has the front spring mounting) also tend to go, and possibly the cross-member that supports the radiator. Galvanised and non-galvanised replacements are available, as well as extensive repair sections.

The bulkhead is almost as bad as the chassis, with the door pillars, the bulkhead top rail underneath the windscreen, around the ventilators, the foot-wells, and immediately behind the engine if oil leaks are kept on top of all rot away. Again repair panels are available for most areas, and now replacement bulkheads are available from Pegasus Parts, but like the chassis they are expensive.

There are other areas to watch too. The door frame seems to rot particularly badly along the bottom section, and repair sections are available from YRM. Repairing genuine doors (they have a rolled edge to the rear of the handle recess) is preferable as they fit better and don't dent as easily, but replacement doors are cheap. Door tops also go about 5-10 years, but these are held in by two bolts and can be changed, but they will need painting and on some models the trim will need to be removed to access the bolts.

Another area that seems particularly forgotten about is the rear floor cross-members. Although not part of the chassis, they are steel and tend to rot badly. They also cause electrolytic reaction with the alloy floor leading it to 'powder' away when they touch, a common problem wherever the alloy panels and steel meet, particularly where the rear cross-member bolts to the rear body. The radiator panel is also steel and rots along the bottom edge where it meets the cross-member. This is a crucial panel as not only does it support the radiator, but it also holds the front wings together and acts as the bonnet slam panel. If this moves or breaks free from its mountings, the radiator could be sent backwards into the fan - not worth thinking about.

Electrics should cause no problems being a fairly simple system, but they do suffer with earthing issues. The fuses are all 35 Amp glass type which are commonly available. However, the biggest electrical problems seem to come from previous owner bodgery and corroded old wiring. Modifications should be carried out correctly, preferably using the correct colours, connectors and relays if necessary, but seldom its a rats' nest. Also make sure the bonnet stay does not touch the positive terminal on the battery. I had this and it burned out the front of the car. New wiring looms are available from Autosparks and they can add in wiring for factory accessories if necessary.

I know it sounds like they are a nightmare to buy, and indeed there are more bad ones than good ones but provided you heed the advice above, you should have a happy Land Rover experience for many years to come. Just remember though, they do break down occasionally, but nowhere near as often as is claimed.

Parts Suppliers:

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It's a brilliant car. mines got a 2.5 litre diesel from an old defender, parabolics all around, spotlights and go faster beige county stripes. The rides surprisingly comfy with parabolics and vinyl seats, well mine is. It has an overdrive so can go at 60 and faster with 109" wheels on it.

Only major problems are heavy steering and noise so Im saving for a power steering kit and soundproofing. If you get a waxoiled chassis it will last a long time and be cheaper than a galvanised one.

I got me a 3 series 88 landie, with the 2.25petrol, purrs like a pussycat on a cold morning, she was an ex navy one brought from England from last owner, shre has loads of off road exp, and still wants more. Hated teh blue and whit so turned her to camoflage and might say she looks better in her new suit. changed bearings, brake cylinders and wax oiled her all simple and on you tube for beginners.

Checked her chassi before buying, and got the owner to drive it to me sowas sure she was in good order, my 10yr old is waiting to take nextownership

very well product for ground

brilliant vehicle, easy to work on, always works, fitted with overdrive and 2.5 turbo diesel from a 90. will do 75mph, and gives 27 mpg. goes everywhere and always gets back home.

bad points, few and far between, drum brakes all round, higher maintenance than disc, noisey inside, would like to fit roof linning but exspensive.

love it.

There is nothing, absolutely nothing quite so much fun as messing about in a Series 3 Landrover

I would recomend any one owning a Series 3, Mine is a 88inch model on a galvenised chassise fitted with a 2 1/4 petrol unit. I have had parabolic springs fitted, and pro comp shocks to soften the ride. other than that shes totaly original. Shes never let me down and never failed to start. And like all the other revies on here people just smile as i drive past. But i recomend taking your time when buying one, and if poss take some one who has land rover experience with you,

Many people would very justifiable comment on how slow, noisy and rough the Series III is. However, if you look at it from a Land Rover owner's perspective, it could very easily be the best fun for £1200, if you get a good one.The model to get really is a genuine Station Wagon, especially with the venerable 2.25 litre petrol engine. It is easy to work on (providing you have a good selection of metric and imperial tools. Station Wagon trim is rare, and has to be in good condition, unlike mine.In general, the Series III is a good reliable workhorse with very little to go wrong, and is capable of shocking owners of fully prepared 90's.So if it so poor, why does it have 10 out of 10? It very simply brings a smile on your face, and everyone else! I turn up for 6th Form in it, and it just gets admired. I have had (serious) offers from Ferrari, Porsche and Aston Martin owners, and it just gets the respect from everyone.If this is all that matters, is this not only "The Greatest Car of all Time" but also the coolest in the world? What more could you want? Even the Queen, Sean Connery and Robin Williams have one. For this reason, it is simply the best choice I ever made, and it's my first car...

Absolutley love my Land Rover Series 3 88 to bits, she will get 60mph no problems, shes easy to fix, looks great, sounds great and is the car I have always wanted.