India Kerala Bike Tours

In January 2011 we did an HC Travel/Kerala Bike Tours two week

mountains and beaches motorcycle tour of Kerala.

It was a tremendous privilege to have ridden a classical Royal Enfield

in India. Perhaps one of those "must do before you die" activities

for anyone who likes to think of themselves as a motorcyclist.

Our charismatic English tour guide and his two Indian accomplices made

a great team, ably looking after clients and motorcycles with an

impressive range of Indian languages between them. Before departure

our group of seven were shown the spare bike already loaded on a

vehicle and ready to go if a replacement was needed. Our bikes were

350cc Bullets with 4 speed gearbox, drum brakes, right foot

gearchange, kickstart and decompresser. They were all quite old, but

nicely turned out with good paintwork, some were on their third

rebuild. Kicking over the 350cc single was easy with the aid of the

decompresser, and any occasional kickback was very mild. Each morning

our machines were checked over with engines warmed and ready to start.

The back up was reassuring. We were followed by a support vehicle

whose highly competent driver negotiated his way through the traffic,

most impressively shielding the group from many of the following

vehicles. Any riders who had difficulty re-starting their mount after

an untimely engine cut out were rapidly rescued as the support truck

pulled up, and its passenger and mechanic jumped out to provide an

expert kick. Luggage and drinking water were carried along with tools

and spares. In the event of illness or injury the talented mechanic

can swap places with the client who is then able to travel in air

conditioned luxury. Pillion passengers could also travel in the

support vehicle.

In India they generally drive on the left, this is however the only

similarity with the UK. We found the roads very much busier and more

urban than expected, even the twisty mountain routes were often

dominated by trucks, buses and exhaust fumes. Many town centres were

absolute bedlam. Surprisingly road rage is non existent, despite the

outrageous manoeuvres which are virtually compulsory. Use of the horn

is essential when passing other vehicles, and at all other times!

Once acclimatised to the riding it becomes fun, an interesting

challenge where you can do no wrong, anything is acceptable, just

weave round everything and keep going regardless. The tedious urban

sprawl requires constant concentration to avoid homicidal bus drivers

as well as conquering the eccentricities of the Enfield gearbox.

We felt there was always plenty to do, with little time to laze

around. Many mornings we set off directly after an early breakfast.

We found our tour guide most attentive with a genuine desire to keep

us all safe and happy. As we rode past groups of schoolchildren their

enthusiastic smiles and waves made us feel most welcome; indeed it is

easy to develop misguided delusions of grandeur as one returns their

waves in regal fashion.

All our hotels looked splendid; sometimes they were glossy marble and

uniformed staff, in other places a unique setting, and occasionally

both grandeur and spectacular views. We usually spent ages in

magnificent hotel reception areas while the incredibly slow process of

checking in, room allocation and luggage delivery took place. At

least on this tour you never have to lumber up two flights of stairs

with helmet, top box and tank bag while sweating in armoured clothing.

Actually we were often served a most welcome drink while we waited.

The alcohol situation in Kerala was a big surprise to us. We

foolishly assumed that all hotels would have a bar, infact almost all

had a "mini bar" but none contained any alcoholic drinks. By popular

demand our guide managed to ensure that beer was provided every

evening, but often at grossly inflated prices and sometimes only late

at night in the privacy of the hotel room. Spirits appeared to be

virtually unobtainable, with the exception of just one excellent

establishment.

Our tour was marketed as a luxury experience. There were too many

occasions when I felt hurried into an early start, hot, dirty and

uncomfortable at hectic roadsides, as well as too few hotels that

provided a consistently hot shower for me to agree. I did however have

a brilliant holiday. My enduring memories are of the enigmatic Royal

Enfield experience on dirt tracks, mountain and manic roads, sunny

hillsides a patchwork of tea plantations, wonderful elephant

encounters, friendly waves and smiling faces, huge hotel beds,

Kingfisher beer and good company. After all that activity you may

deserve a few days rest and recuperation.

Our booking and airfares were handled by HC Travel in the UK www.hctravel.com

Within India all arrangements were made by www.keralabiketours.com

If you go to India be aware that the visa application is bureaucratic, time consuming and costly.